You need to make sure that wp_footer() is called right before the closing body tag in your footer.php. Then, you need to make sure you page gets hit by a browser who is *not* logged in.
I just loaded the page you linked to above. I don’t see the stats javascript at the bottom of the page source. This makes me think you aren’t calling wp_footer().
Maybe hours was an exaggeration… but tens of minutes for sure…
My site righted itself again now. Erf.
The same thing happens for me from time to time.
I don’t know what is up with it. For almost anything except the home-page, it sends the RSS feed instead. It does this for hours at a time. Then, it fixes itself.
I am just starting to try to debug it.