Happily I found the answer myself (for my problem) which is to go to:
http://www.goldwings.org/wp-admin/ (rather than just http://www.goldwings.org.uk)
which allows you to log in as normal even if MM is active, then disable MM if you wish.
I have a similar problem; activated MM (for the first time) and then logged out to see what it looked like to the world at large and now I can’t find a way of logging back in to deactivate the MM!
url is http://www.goldwings.org.uk
Hope someone can help!
Stuart