To answer my own question after fooling around with it, it appears that you need to add a new menu (Appearance\Menus from the dashboard), even if it’s identical to the original menu. Then you’ll see the Menu settings options and can select “Primary Menu” and a spinner/droplist control appears for them menu.
It would be nice to be able to have the regular menus from the site appear instead of the spinner/dropdown control.
This one thing aside, this is perhaps the best theme I’ve ever seen, without any of the clutter most theme developers seem compelled to litter about their themes. Good work! If this wasn’t a charitable project with zero communications budget, I’d happily drop the cash for the pro version just to show support for the developer!
