Earther, thank you so much for your thoughtful post; I really appreciate the feedback.
A couple things in my defense...
While the site is readable at an 800x600 screen res, I made a conscious effort (based on my target audience) to create a design best suited for 1024x768 and higher.
I read through the Sitepoint forum regarding font size - some interesting points of view. On the one hand, I have to agree with ALA: you decided to change your default font size, which is atypical. I use percentages and ems to scale fonts and they are, of course, legible when increased for people with vision problems.
On the other hand, it seems like a fairly easy CSS fix for those of you who shrink the default browser font size.
The visited link colors are definitely muted, but that again was intentional. I'll bounce the issue off a few others, and get more feedback.
Again, thank you for your remarks.