thanks for reading.
Blog is at http://www.bicycletouringandvacationguide.com/index.php (the old html site isn't removed yet)
WP used to be at http://www.bicycletouringandvacationguide.com/blog
In Settings/General, I changed the url
I moved index.php to the root and it looked good
I then went to change the permalink structure, picked custom /%category%/%postname%/
Then I went to update the htaccess; I used the recommended content, created a file and uploaded via ftp. It borked everything 500 error so I deleted it.
so - how do I get my pages and content links to work? Any help is appreciated!